Leather Types And Characteristics
There are many types of leather, all with different qualities, grades, finishes, and cuts each has it’s own unique qualities that will benefit different project types or working styles. Among the types of leather available are full grain, top grain, genuine, bicast, and bonded. The finishes include aniline, semi-aniline, brush-colored, degged, embossed, embroidered, hand-worked, metallic, nappa, nubuck, oily, patent, pigmented, printed, split, suede, and waxy leather.
For the best results, make sure you choose the right leather for your project. Let’s get familiar with all the different types.
Types of Leather
There are several different types of leather. In this article, we will explore the types of cuts, leather qualities, leather grades, leather finishes, types of leather by animal, types of leather with fur, and even types of faux and vegan leather. The differences between them are considerable. In some cases, these variations are the result of the manufacturing process. Others are the result of the finishing process. Still others depend on the type of hide, and yet others are determined by how the leather is cut. Let's explore each of them more closely.
The “Five Types of Leather”
People often wonder about the "5 types of leather" even though there are many types of leather. Generally, what they mean is the volume and layering of the original hide that is still present in the end product. Among them are full grain, top grain, genuine, split grain, and bonded leather, and much detail about each will be shared. Finished leather's quality and characteristics differ depending on where it is taken from the hide. A number of different factors can also affect leather quality. There are several factors that can influence an animal's health, such as its breed, climate, food, and amount of exercise. Because hides are natural materials, their existence is heavily influenced by the lives of the animals from which they originate. Leather quality can also be affected by the meatpacking, tanning, and finishing processes utilized during production. Along with the leather grades consumers are familiar with, we’ll look into leather grades the tanners use when evaluating hides coming from the meatpackers.
What is a Leather Hide?
A leather hide is an animal's hide that has been removed. Due to the substance's natural origin, it has unique characteristics that allowed it to fulfill a purpose for the animal in which it was derived. These characteristics usually allow it to act as a protective layer in the animal. As a result, its internal parts remain safe. Along with hair or fur, it is comprised of multiple layers that protects the body from the elements such as the sun, water, abrasions, and other daily threats.
Leather Hide – The Grain
The grain of leather is the surface on the outside of the hide. It is made up of tight, dense fibers. When the hair is removed, the grain is the layer that was exposed to the elements (air, rain, sun, etc.) and is usually very strong and smooth.
Leather Hide – The Grain and Corium Junction
The grain and corium junction is where the tight, outer layer of the leather blends into the looser fibers of the corium. This junction is a mix of the very desirable grain layer and the more fibrous and looser fibers of the corium layer.
Leather Hide – Corium
In animal hides, the corium is a layer primarily composed of collagen fibers. In contrast to the grain layer, these fibers are looser and more open. Though, this layer is highly usable for producing leather. The corium is usually the thickest layer within an animal's hide. Therefore, when a hide is split, parts of the corium might end up in genuine leather or top grain leather.
Leather Hide – Flesh
Muscle and fatty tissues are found mostly in the flesh layer of the hide. These tissues are not particularly valuable to the end-user of leather. Leather is usually split to remove the layers above it, resulting in a variety of grades and qualities of useable leather for leather goods. To understand leather grades and quality, it's important to know how the leather is prepared, cut, and finished. Let's look at some of the most common methods.
Types of Leather Grades and Leather Qualities
This is how leather is graded most commonly. It is less about actual "grades" than it is about how the leather has been split and surfaced. Even so, these variations can affect the performance and overall quality of a leather piece. That is why people commonly refer to them as "grades of leather". After that, we'll examine the actual grades used by meatpackers when evaluating hides to sell to tanneries.
Full Grain Leather
Leather that hasn't been sanded or buffed to remove any imperfections. It contains the outer layout of the hide, referred to as the "grain". Hair is usually the only part removed from full grain leather. The grain generally has fibers that are finer and more densely packed, producing a surface that is extremely strong, durable, and able to withstand heavy use.
As it is not sanded, the surface can have minor imperfections. A cow could have rubbed against a fence, received a small cut, or gotten scrapes as a result of everyday activities. The most desired hides are full grain hides without many blemishes since they are the least common and are the most visually appealing. Additionally, those surface fibers give it the most strength of any type of leather. For this reason, saddles, shoes, and furniture are made from it. A patina develops over time (a color change in the surface caused by use), which is pleasing to the eye due to the fact that the outer layer is not removed. Additionally, the outer layer provides some water resistance. Full Grain leather is considered to be the best quality leather.
Top Grain Leather
It is very similar to full-grain, except for the fact that the top layer has been sanded and/or buffed to remove irregularities and imperfections. This makes the leather softer and more pliable, with various dyes and finished applied to it. The sanding makes it more visually appealing, but it also removes a lot of the strength and some water-repelling properties of full grain leather. The strength of leather is a tradeoff against its look, softness, and appearance. High-end leather goods, including handbags, wallets, and shoes, typically use top grain leather because of its softness and flexibility.
Genuine Leather (Corrected Leather)
Genuine leather can be derived from any layer of a hide, and its surface is treated to ensure a uniform, "corrected" appearance. Surface imperfections can be removed by sanding or buffing, then dyed (or spray painted) or stamped/embossed to give it a final appearance. As a result, while the leather is not a top-quality leather, it is often used to make belts and similar items.
Split Grain Leather
Split grain leather is a layered cut of leather from within the lower levels of the top grain area of the hide. Usually, it is taken from the lower part of the hide, above the flesh. It is also taken from below the full grain and the best top grain cuts. However, it is still a useful leather material. Compared to full grain and top grain leather, the natural surface of split grain leather is less dense, tight, and useful. Consequently, it is sometimes used in leather finishes that are colored, embossed, or have the surface altered in some way. The material is, therefore, able to offer some of the benefits of leather, but with a visually pleasing and often-functional surface that is useful for leather products.
Bonded Leather (Reconstituted Leather)
Bonded leather is a type of scrapple, made of finely shredded leather scraps and bonded together with polyurethane or latex onto a mesh or sheet of fiber. The amount of leather in the mix can vary greatly (from 10% to 90%), therefore affecting the functional and aesthetic properties of the final product. Bonded leather is often painted to give it color and could also be pressed/embossed to give it the appearance of a particular grain or leather style.
Types of Leather Grades – For Raw Hides
Meatpackers immediately grade raw hides when they produce them. Grades are used to determine the quality of raw hide, and enable accurate sales to tanneries. Ultimately, the hides will be tanned and processed into finished leather in tanneries. Due to this, it is important for them to know exactly what kind of leather they are receiving. As a result, they will be able to consistently produce high-quality finished leathers for the production of leather goods. Inspectors grade raw hides by looking for holes, deep cuts, scars, large abrasions, discolorations, machine damage (from skinning machines), remaining hair, and grain irregularities. Additionally, it is important to remember that many large ranch operations brand their cattle to indicate ownership. The process involves permanently burning a unique pattern (usually letters or initials) into the skin of an animal. In order to permanently burn the pattern into the hide, a metal brand in the form of the pattern is heated before being pressed into the animal's hide. The brand impact on hide quality is also taken into account in the grading process.
Generally, hides are graded as follows:
Leather Hide Grade – Number One
The highest quality hides are number one. The surface is generally free of major imperfections, cuts, or holes. As long as the holes are within 3-4 inches of the edge of the hides, and can be trimmed away, they will not affect the overall grade. Approximately 80% of hides shipped to tanners should be number one grade.
Leather Hide Grade – Number Two
The number two hide may have up to four holes or cuts, as long as they are located in a generally straight line. As a result, they can be cut around later, still yielding a substantial area of the usable hide. To be considered acceptable within a number two grade hide, holes need to be less than 5". The size of the grain defects should also not exceed one foot square in the coverage area. An estimated 15%-20% of hides shipped to tanners have a number two hide grade.
Leather Hide Grade – Number Three
The number three grade hides generally have five or more holes or cuts in them, ideally in a straight line so that they can be cut around later and still yield a good portion of the usable hide. Tanners only purchase number three grade hides when the tanner has agreed to do so. There could be a cut or hole larger than six inches, as well as grain defects or a series of close-located smaller holes. In general, number three grade hides should produce at least 50% usable surface area..
Leather Hide Grade – Untannable
If the hide does not meet the quality standards of grades one, two, or three, it is considered untannable. It is not shipped to tanners but instead enters another viable outlet for using raw animal hide materials.
Types of Leather Cuts
There is a large amount of leather to choose from when deciding where to cut pieces for a project. Depending on the size of the hide compared to the animal's body, some pieces will be higher quality and a little easier to work with. It is usually possible to purchase finished leather based on its cut type. This can include the entire hide or specific areas inside. Depending on the type of project you are working on and the performance characteristics you need, it is helpful to know the different cuts available.
Leather Hide and Cut Guide
Whole Leather Cut
An entire leather hide encompasses the whole skinned and tanned hide from an animal. Since the hide includes the areas from all the other related cuts, the available leather will range from softer areas to thicker, stiffer areas. The range of leather thickness and weight will also vary.
Side Leather Cut
Side cuts of leather hides are half of the entire hide, cut lengthwise in the middle. since this includes areas from all related cuts, the leather available can range from softer, stretchier areas to thicker, stiffer areas.
Shoulder Leather Cut
The shoulder cut of a leather hide comes from the shoulder region of the animal. This area is usually firm, yet malleable and flexible, which makes it ideal for tooling.
Double Shoulder Leather Cut
In leather hides, a double shoulder cut is taken from the shoulder area. It is essentially the entire shoulder area from the hide. This area is generally firm, but malleable and flexible. Shoulder cuts are excellent for tooling.
Bend Leather Cut
In a leather hide, the bend section ranges from the spine towards the belly, towards the middle of the hide. It is some of the best leather available in a hide, positioned towards the hind side before the butt, and is ideal for a wide variety of leather products.
Double Bend Leather Cut
This section of a leather hide, covering the area between the spine and the belly, is some of the best leather available in a hide, usually located on the hind side before the butt. It can be used for a wide variety of leather products.
Butt Leather Cut
This is the thickest and firmest region of the hide, running from the hind leg portion of the hide to the spine. Butt cuts are ideal for thicker items like heavy belts.
Double Butt Leather Cut
In a double butt cut, the hind leg portion of the hide is cut around the butt and up towards the spine on both sides. This is the thickest and firmest area of the hide, which makes it useful for thicker items like belts.
Belly Leather Cut
The belly cut of a leather hide is the left or right edge of the hide. The belly of animals naturally expands and contracts as food and water are consumed. This makes the belly leather softer and stretchier than other areas of the hide. Although it's not considered prime leather, belly-cut leather can be used for a variety of leatherworking purposes.
Double Belly Leather Cut
The belly cut of a leather hide is from the left and right edges of the hide. The belly of animals naturally expands and contracts as food and water are consumed. This makes the belly leather a little softer, and stretchier, than from other areas of the hide. While not considered prime leather, belly cut leather can be used for a variety of leatherworking uses.
Types of Leather from Different Animal Hides
Cattle
Leather can be produced from the skin of any animal. Throughout history, many leathers have been made in various times, places, and with different methods. The most common types can be obtained from cows, sheep, goats, and pigs, but most types can be obtained if necessary. Generally, when speaking about animal leathers, those from larger animals such as cattle are called hides, and those from smaller animals such as rabbits or pigs are called skins. Also, in terms of volume, cattle leather makes up about 67% of global leather production..
Cattle – Bulls
In general, bulls are un-castrated male cattle. They have high levels of testosterone and thick, heavy hides. Bull leather is useful for thicker leather items such as heavy belts and shoe and boot soles. A low number of male cattle are kept as bulls in order to reproduce breeds, so much less bull leather is available than other types.
Cattle – Steers
Steer leather can be used in many leather applications, such as saddlery, belts, some shoes, and other strap items. Because many more steers are kept than bulls, steer leather is more readily available.
Cattle – Cows
Cows are female cattle that have given birth to calves. Cow leather is a soft, thick leather that works well for most leather needs.
Cattle – Heifers
Heifers are female cows that have not yet given birth to a calf. The leather from these cows is soft and pliable and is great for shoes, boots, and similar applications.
Cattle – Dairy Cows
Milk cows are female cattle bred primarily for the production of milk. Their hides are generally thin and soft, making them suitable for belts, wallets, garments, upholstery, and straps.
Cattle – Calves
Calves are young male or female cattle. Their hides tend to be soft, thin, and supple, making them suitable for finer leather applications such as wallets, watchbands, and handbags.
Pigs
Pig leather is mainly used in clothing due to its breathability and lightness. Pig leather accounts for about 10% of the total leather produced worldwide.
Sheep
It is popular because sheep leather often has one side made of leather and the other of wool. The wool draws perspiration away from the wearer, making it an ideal leather for year-round use in upholstery, shoes, slippers, boots and moccasins. Sheep leather, including lamb leather, makes up about 12% of the total leather production worldwide.
Goat
Goat leather is a soft, strong, and durable leather that is commonly used to make shoes, boots, gloves, rugs, and bags. The skins are supple and flexible, making the leather very comfortable. Goat and kid leather make up about 11% of total leather production in the world.
Horse
Most horse leather products are made from "cordovan" leather, which is made from the butt section of the horse. Cordovan leather is very thick, smooth, and dense. It is ideal for fine shoes and gloves. Unlike cattle hides, horse butts cover a relatively small surface area, which is why cordovan leather products are generally small items such as shoes, gloves, and small accessories.
Exotic Animal Leathers
As leather can be made from any animal, there are often many types of leather available. These are referred to as "exotic" leathers, because they're less common and sometimes hard to obtain, manufacture, or locate. Some but not all of the options for exotic leather are: alligator, alpaca, antelope, armadillo, bear, buffalo, caiman, camel, deer, dog, elk, frog, giraffe, hippo, kangaroo, moose, mules, ostrich, rabbit, seal, shark, snake, wallaby, walrus, yak, zebra, and many more.
Types of Leather Used for Furs
The hair left on the hide of some animals is used to make clothing and accessories in the double face method of leather finishing. One face is the finished leather, and the other is the animal fur. Here is a partial list of leathers used for furs: beaver, chinchilla, coyote, fox, lynx, mink, muskrat, opossum, rabbit, raccoon, sable, seal, wolf, and more.
Types of Leather Finishes – Finished Leathers
There are many different finishes available for leathers when they are made. These finishes can include texture, flexibility, color, and finish. Let's explore some of the most common types of finished leather.
Aniline Leather
Aniline leather is a type of leather dyed only with soluble dyes that allow the natural surface of the leather to shine through (blemishes, cuts, etc.). Only higher quality leathers are used since they have nice, even surfaces. After the leather has been dyed, it is finished with a thin protective coating to prevent the leather from wearing quickly or preventing discoloration from appearing on the surface. This can be a visually appealing way to dye leather since it allows the original surface to appear.
Semi-Aniline Leather
It is similar to aniline leather, but it is only slightly pigmented. Semi-aniline leathers are dyed only with soluble dyes and allow the natural surface of the leather to show through (blemishes, cuts, etc.). After that, the leather is finished with a thin layer of protective coating to prevent rapid wear and staining. High-quality leather is generally used as it has nice, even surfaces. This can be a visually appealing dye approach since it allows the original surface of the leather to show through.
Antique Grain Leather
Decorative leather is leather that has been treated with a surface effect to make it appear aged and worn. The treatment may include several colors or a rubbed pattern to mimic wear over time. Antique grain leather allows you to create an aged look in your finished product without requiring the leather to be too old or worn out.
Bicast Leather
Bicast leather, which gives the appearance of patterned/shiny leather without the price tag of top or full-grain leather, has a split leather backing and an embossed or impressed layer of vinyl or polyurethane on top.
Brush Colored Leather
Bruch colored leather is a type of leather in which pigment is applied via a brush. The variations may be in gradient, blending, or overall tone. Bruch colored leather is appropriate for finished pieces that strive for creativity and individuality.
Degrained Leather
Degrained leather is a type of leather that has had the grain layer removed. This generally occurs towards the end of the production process. Benefits of degrained leather include a smooth, consistent surface that looks quite nice. However, removing the grain also weakens the outer surface of the layer, making it more susceptible to wear and moisture penetration.
Double Face Leather (Double Sided Leather)
A double-face leather, also called double-sided leather, is a type of leather that has two unique sides. For example, sheepskin, where one side is leather and the other is wool or leather that has different embossing patterns on each side. Double-sided leather can also refer to variations in color, with each side being a different color or variation of colors.
Embossed Leather
This type of leather is created by producing raised patterns on the finished hide. You can do this by stamping, pressing, rolling, molding, or forming the leather. The embossed elements may be designs, lettering, or any visual enhancements to the hide.
Embroidered Leather
An embroidered leather is a leather that has had embroidery applied to it. Embroidery is the craft of using needles and thread to embellish materials. Thread patterns are usually placed in such a way that they produce a decorative pattern or motif that is now part of the embroidered material. This is done mainly for aesthetic reasons.
Faux Leather
It has the advantages of being inexpensive (compared to real leather), durable, and easy to clean; it is often used in the furniture industry. Faux leather is generally made of polyurethane or vinyl and is intended to look like real leather but costs a lot less. While it is durable, it does not reflect real leather qualities such as natural stretchability, breathability, resistance to cuts, and a unique natural appearance/feel. Faux leather can be referred to by a number of names, which can include: Faux Leather, PU Leather, Vinyl Leather, and Vegan Leather..
Hand Worked Leather
Leather that is hand-worked is made through the manual application of leather tools, which can produce leather with tooled, stamped, etched, or embossed surfaces. The results can be quite stunning as the craft of hand-working leather is quite an art form.
Interwoven Leather
Interwoven leather is a type of leather that is braided together. Often used for belts, the weave of the leather laces or strips creates a unique look and feel. Weaving leather can be used for straps or belts, as well as small bags and pouches, depending on the skill of the weaver.
Metallic Leather
Metallic Leather is a type of leather that has had a metal layer of material added to it during the finishing process. This layer creates a metallic, shiny, reflective look to the finished leather. It provides a finishing option that is most often used in clothing, accessories, and handbags.
Nappa (Napa)
A napa is a type of leather this is more a general marketing term for a smooth, soft, full-grain leather. Some napa comes from genuine leather and isn't the best quality, the term isn't a big indicator of quality or material. It is more of a plastic phrase for a smooth, soft leather.
Nubuck Leather
Nubuck leather is a type of top-grain leather that has been sanded to produce short protein fibers on the surface. This creates a soft, velvet-like surface that is pleasing to the touch, as well as a distinctly elegant appearance. Nubuck leather is often used in jackets, gloves, and accessories.
Oil Leather (Pull-Up Leather, Waxy Leather, Waxed Leather)
Oil leather, also known as pull-up leather, waxy leather, and waxed leather, has a higher than average amount of oils in the surface finish. When the leather is flexed and moved, the surface reflects light in different ways. This can provide a varied appearance across surface tones.
Patent Leather
Patent leather is a type of leather with a high-gloss finish applied with a coating of linseed oil. It was developed by Seth Boyden in 1818 (in Newark, New Jersey). The finish is often very noticeable with a highly-reflective finish. More modern patent leather replaces the linseed oil finish with a plastic coating.
Pearlized Leather
A pearlized leather is a leather that has had a liquid layer of color added to the surface during finishing, providing a soft, subtle shimmer and reflection. While not as shiny or reflective as metallic leather, pearlized leather is a subtler implementation of the same concept. It is commonly used on clothing, accessories, and handbags.
Pigmented Leather
Pigmented leather is leather that is finished with a top coat of pigment (or paint), which provides both an even surface on the leather, as well as a protective coating. Pigmented leather is often sealed with a clear protective sealer to help protect the pigment coating.
Printed Leather
Leather that has been printed with surface textures is known as printed leather. It can serve both functional and aesthetic purposes. Functional purposes may include making the leather surface resistant to scratches and abrasions. Aesthetic purposes might include making the leather surface look uniformly pebbled or nubbed. The textures of printed leathers can also feel superior. Saffiano leather is one example of printed leather.
Quilon Leather
This style of leather is produced by the Doc Martens footwear company. It is a supple, smooth leather that is finished with a "haircell" pattern, which gives it a stylish appearance. The Quilon leather was developed in 2007, based on the now-vintage Doc Marten leather from the 1970s.
Stretch Leather
Usually a composite leather, Stretch leather is designed to allow it to stretch when used. A processed leather surface can be mixed with a synthetic underlayer that allows the material to stretch while maintaining a uniform look and most of the usual performance properties. Stretch leather is used in clothing and leather goods that are to be worn and flex with human motion.
Suede Leather
Suede is a type of leather made by sanding the surface in order to leave the surface with a slight nap of short protein fibers, but instead of being made from full grain leather, suede is made from split grain leather.
Washable Leather
Washable leather is a type of leather that can be cleaned more easily. While leather should not be heavily cleaned frequently (and likely won't if well-cared for), there are different methods through which it can be cleaned. For items like clothing that have a high likelihood of requiring frequent washing, washable leather can be used to help them last longer and stay in great shape.
Related Questions:
What is the best leather?
Full grain leather is generally the best leather. It is smooth, dense, flexible, and wears very well over time. That said, the best leather will depend on the type of project and the individual's preference for leather characteristics.
What is the strongest type of leather?
In general, full grain leather is the strongest. It hasn't been sanded or buffed to remove imperfections. The grain has tightly packed fibers that are finer, which produces a strong, durable surface that can withstand hard use.